Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth
文献类型：期刊论文
| 作者 | Song, JB; Hou, YJ; He, YJ; Wu, YH ; Yin, BS
|
| 刊名 | COASTAL ENGINEERING
 |
| 出版日期 | 2002-06-01 |
| 卷号 | 46期号:1页码:51-60 |
| 关键词 | Statistical Distribution Wave Surface Elevation Second-order Random Waves Water Depth Wave-number Spectrum |
| ISSN号 | 0378-3839 |
| 文献子类 | Article |
| 英文摘要 | Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram-Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram-Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.; Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram-Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram-Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved. |
| 学科主题 | Engineering, Civil ; Engineering, Ocean |
| 语种 | 英语 |
| WOS记录号 | WOS:000176751100003 |
| 公开日期 | 2010-12-22 |
| 源URL | [http://ir.qdio.ac.cn/handle/337002/2533]  |
| 专题 | 海洋研究所_海洋环流与波动重点实验室 |
| 作者单位 | 1.Acad Sinica, Inst Oceanol, Qingdao 266071, Peoples R China 2.Curtin Univ Technol, Sch Math & Stat, Perth, WA 6845, Australia |
| 推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714 | Song, JB,Hou, YJ,He, YJ,et al. Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth[J]. COASTAL ENGINEERING,2002,46(1):51-60. |
| APA | Song, JB,Hou, YJ,He, YJ,Wu, YH,&Yin, BS.(2002).Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth.COASTAL ENGINEERING,46(1),51-60. |
| MLA | Song, JB,et al."Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth".COASTAL ENGINEERING 46.1(2002):51-60. |
入库方式： OAI收割
来源：海洋研究所
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